Fabric Definitions in Italy in the Renaissance.

Cloth and fabric in the Renaissance were extremely variable due to fashion tastes, regulations and area of manufacture. Each type of cloth was susceptible of numerous variations in dimensions, weight, and finishing processes. They ranged from course to fine, in diverse lengths and widths, with plain or napped surfaces. Mixed fabrics were made with stripes, checks, or geometric designs produced by the use of dyed yarns or special weaves.

Types of Fabrics in Italian, some with places of origin.

Acordolati	Linen and cotton. Thick cotton threads and fine linen. Produces "corded" fabrics. Not at all like modern corduroy.
Ambresine	Heavy cotton and hemp.
Bombasine	Cotton and hemp. Creates heavy canvas.
Burdi	cotton and linen. Plain, striped, or checked. Mattress ticking.
Banerie	Cotton. Napped and thick. Milan.
Bigello	Wool and Wool. Thick, coarse. Napped, fuzzy. Called Frieze in English. Florence
Bisiello	Linen and/or cotton. Fine, made of Yellow flax. Egyptian. Byssus in English
Canovaccio	Linen and Linen. Coarse. Tailors toile, horse trappings. Florentine
Cotonine	Cotton. Sailcloth material. Lombardy.
Contoneta	cotton. Rough, opaque, lowerclass dress material.
Cangiante	Silk and Silk. Shot taffeta. Florence.
Cusacchi	1596 Cotton and silk, Venice, Levant.
Dimeto	cotton/ ?? lining fabric. Genoa.
Dobloni	Silk and Wool. Italy
Dubretto	Linen and Cotton/wool. France, Sicily.
Filindenti	Cotton and hemp. Bologna.
Guarnello	Linen and cotton, or only cotton. Thin weave. Also known as Fustagno. Florence.
Imbroccatelli	Silk and Cotton for lining coats and other heavy duties. Venice.
Himo	Wool and Goat hair. Simple gowns for the poor. Italy.
Ogellata	silk/cotton mixture. Pavia
Pannus Bambaceus	Cotton mixed with silk or wool.
Pannus Divisatus	Cotton mixed with wool, sometimes silk made in Milan, or Marseilles.
Paliocta	Cotton. Striped cloth for lining quilts. Bologna
Rasetti	Silk and waste silk/hemp. Venice
Rascia	Wool, wool. Unrefined. Raska-Serbia. 1500's- Quality wool cloth. Fulled. Florence. Also known as Rash cloth, English
Sciamiti	heavy mix of cotton/silk, or silk/linen. Venice.
Sciamiti pillosi	heavy mix of Silk with cotton or linen with napped surface. Venice.
Steleta	Cotton. Mattress ticking. Milan.
Santellari	cotton and wool. brushed surface, local consumption. Verona, Pisa
Sendal	Silk and Silk. For Veils. Italy.
Samite	Silk and cotton/hemp/flax. Greece.
Terlici	Linen and hemp. Triple twilled.
Tirintana	Waste cotton spun into coarse cloth. Could not be mixed. Venice.
Tele	Family of cloths with Thrown silk and Cotton/flax weft. Patterns and stripes. Italy.
Valessi	Cotton and linen.

References:

Dressing Renaissance Florence
Carole Collier Frick
John Hopkins Unversity Press, Baltimore (c) 2002
ISBN 0801869390

The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venice
Luca Mola
John Hopkins University Press, Baltimore (c) 2000
ISBN 0801861896

The Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middle Ages 1100-1600
Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui
Cambridge, Cambridge University Press (c) 1981
ISBN: 0521230950

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