Fabric Types

Fabric Definitions in Italy in the Renaissance.

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Cloth and fabric in the Renaissance were extremely variable due to fashion tastes, regulations and area of manufacture. Each type of cloth was susceptible of numerous variations in dimensions, weight, and finishing processes. They ranged from course to fine, in diverse lengths and widths, with plain or napped surfaces. Mixed fabrics were made with stripes, checks, or geometric designs produced by the use of dyed yarns or special weaves.

Types of Fabrics in Italian, some with places of origin.
Acordolati Linen and cotton. Thick cotton threads and fine linen. Produces "corded" fabrics. Not at all like modern corduroy.
Ambresine Heavy cotton and hemp.
Bombasine Cotton and hemp. Creates heavy canvas.
Burdi cotton and linen. Plain, striped, or checked. Mattress ticking.
Banerie Cotton. Napped and thick. Milan.
Bigello Wool and Wool. Thick, coarse. Napped, fuzzy. Called Frieze in English. Florence
Bisiello Linen and/or cotton. Fine, made of Yellow flax. Egyptian. Byssus in English
Canovaccio Linen and Linen. Coarse. Tailors toile, horse trappings. Florentine
Cotonine Cotton. Sailcloth material. Lombardy.
Contoneta cotton. Rough, opaque, lowerclass dress material.
Cangiante Silk and Silk. Shot taffeta. Florence.
Cusacchi 1596 Cotton and silk, Venice, Levant.
Dimeto cotton/ ?? lining fabric. Genoa.
Dobloni Silk and Wool. Italy
Dubretto Linen and Cotton/wool. France, Sicily.
Filindenti Cotton and hemp. Bologna.
Guarnello Linen and cotton, or only cotton. Thin weave. Also known as Fustagno. Florence.
Imbroccatelli Silk and Cotton for lining coats and other heavy duties. Venice.
Himo Wool and Goat hair. Simple gowns for the poor. Italy.
Ogellata silk/cotton mixture. Pavia
Pannus Bambaceus Cotton mixed with silk or wool.
Pannus Divisatus Cotton mixed with wool, sometimes silk made in Milan, or Marseilles.
Paliocta Cotton. Striped cloth for lining quilts. Bologna
Rasetti Silk and waste silk/hemp. Venice
Rascia Wool, wool. Unrefined. Raska-Serbia. 1500's- Quality wool cloth. Fulled. Florence. Also known as Rash cloth, English
Sciamiti heavy mix of cotton/silk, or silk/linen. Venice.
Sciamiti pillosi heavy mix of Silk with cotton or linen with napped surface. Venice.
Steleta Cotton. Mattress ticking. Milan.
Santellari cotton and wool. brushed surface, local consumption. Verona, Pisa
Sendal Silk and Silk. For Veils. Italy.
Samite Silk and cotton/hemp/flax. Greece.
Terlici Linen and hemp. Triple twilled.
Tirintana Waste cotton spun into coarse cloth. Could not be mixed. Venice.
Tele Family of cloths with Thrown silk and Cotton/flax weft. Patterns and stripes. Italy.
Valessi Cotton and linen.


Dressing Renaissance Florence
Carole Collier Frick
John Hopkins Unversity Press, Baltimore (c) 2002
ISBN 0801869390

The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venice
Luca Mola
John Hopkins University Press, Baltimore (c) 2000
ISBN 0801861896

The Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middle Ages 1100-1600
Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui
Cambridge, Cambridge University Press (c) 1981
ISBN: 0521230950

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This website is the created authorship of Brandy Dickson, also known in the SCA as Lady Desamona Villani. Copyrighted 2004-2008. Any questions or comments about the construction or contents of this website can be directed to her.